30 July 2009

Fjording

Hi folks. I wish this were a joke, but every single American I have run into in Norway thus far has been from Minnesota. Seriously, every single person. It's starting to get a little ridiculous, but I suppose I call attention to myself with the Twins hat. It must be that "Minnesota Nice" that prompts everyone to introduce themselves.

Speaking of the Twins, GM Bill Smith is worthless at his job.

Anyways, I took a "Norway in a Nutshell" tour today, which was highlighted by a 2 hour boat ride through a fjord whose name I cannot pronounce. Before you gasp in horror at the prospect of me taking a guided, organized tour, let me allay your fears slightly. First of all, the "tour" was more just a series of train, bus, and ferry tickets. There wasn't anyone holding up a cat umbrella, yelling at us about prosaic information. In fact, there wasn't any commentary at all, which was great. The day didn't start well however, since I accidentally bought both decaf coffee AND a raisin pastry. Oh yeah, and the train was delayed, but I was much more concerned about my coffee/pastry mishap. It ended up with me throwing both away, and starting over.

Everything you've heard about Norway's fjords is true, and then some. Any hesitation I had about dropping all that money on a tour was destroyed by the sheer majesty of the surroundings. I took a ton of photos: I fear none will do them justice, but I'll be sure to post when I get home. It was rather chilly and rainy on the boat, which made me extremely glad for the "Nor-wear" jacket I bought on Wednesday. If I was left with the clothes I came with, I think I would have been stuck below decks for the entire boat ride. I forgot my nautical themed pashmina afghan, but I dealt (SNL reference for older readers).

But yes, if you're in Norway, you must go to the fjords.

The other really memorable part was this train ride through this spectacular valley, which ended up with something like a 1,600 foot climb. It was wild.

One thing that kept popping into my head is how rugged Norway is. To modern folk, to comfortable Western tourists, the landscape is beautiful. Gorgeous mountains, fjords, rivers, etc. We can approach them from a certain level of power, knowing that we're comfortable on a boat, or on a train, or whatever. However, I think the Norwegian landscape can also justifiably be described as terrifying, in the most grandiose sense of the term. I mean, it is raw nature, and it is unforgiving terrain. If I were a 16th century farmer, I think I would be much more cognizant of the "terror" aspect.

Going along with that, I cannot imagine the shock that must have confronted Norwegian emigrants first arriving in Minnesota, or the other Plains states. The contrast between this landscape and the Minnesotan one is like comparing Antarctica to the Sahara. I suppose I should have better insight into this question, having had to read "Giants in the Earth" for Paideia.

Speaking of Per Hansa and Paideia, I made a nightcap of a long and fruitful day by purchasing a bottle of "Hansa" pilsner and smoking a Cuban (not inhaling) in a park overlooking the Bryggen (wharf). It would have been better with friends, but it was pretty alright just by myself too. Did a little souvenir shopping, and here I am again at the hostel.

Two more days left in Norway, then a long Sunday that will take me back to the States. I definitely feel a lot more at ease having my baggage situation seemingly resolved, but it's going to be nice to head home. My primary motivation right now is monetary in nature. In London, I budgeted in pounds sterling, and I had plenty of money to make it through the month. This little adventure to find my heritage is basically consuming the fumes of what was left of my London budget, and fumes is pretty much the correct term right now. But as the old Minnesotan woman who sat next to me on the bus said, you'll never regret doing what you have to do to travel. I think I'll listen to her.

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